Roberto Conterno visited the Nervi estate in Gattinara for many years due to a close association with the previous owners, the Astrup family. Roberto encouraged his friend to purchase these vineyards in 2011, once great but left in disrepair with the quote ‘no one could make bad wine here’. Once the scale of the job became apparent though, Roberto, at the Astrup’s request became more involved, advising his friends and becomingmore connected to the estate itself. The Astrup family encouraged Roberto to take ownership, and he did so officially from April 2018. Roberto completed his state-of-the-art cellar soon after and as the photo belowshows, there is nothing else quite like it. One of us commented on how beautiful the space was and he smiled but corrected us and said, “that was not the intention, it was only that it be the most perfectly functional space.” Let’s just say it ticks both boxes perfectly. 

Tastings are held in a space suspended above his new fermentation room in a stunning glass pod. There we listened to Roberto while he gave us his, as always, undivided attention regarding the current vintages and his vision with Nervi-Conterno, the latter being a pursuit that makes us mere mortals feel like we haven’t really achieved all that much in our lives. Roberto has been very busy and it’s nice to see things come off so perfectly given the work he has put in over the years. 

There is never any instruction when tasting with Roberto, he simply pours the wines and answers any questions. They speak for themselves, and this year’s releases are no different…

Importer Notes

Critic Reviews

The 2020 Gattinara Molsino is a dark, brooding Gattinara. Black cherry, plum, liquorice, crushed rocks, lavender and spice all race across the palate. A wine of sombre intensity, the 2020 is built for the long haul. Deep and beguiling, firm tannins enshroud the long, building finish. 97 Points, Antonio Galloni